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Night Photos
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   Author  Topic: Night Photos  (Read 1815 times)
CG_Tower
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Night Photos
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« on: Nov 27th, 2004, 9:05pm »
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I was looking through some older photos and found a couple of night shots. While not overly spectacular in nature, they were done using flash bulbs.
 
Does anyone else use this vintage technology? I find the results better then most of the modern lighting mechanisms.
 
Eric in CG



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CG_Tower
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Re: Night Photos
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« Reply #1 on: Nov 27th, 2004, 9:06pm »
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And one more...


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jdstew
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Re: Night Photos
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« Reply #2 on: Nov 30th, 2004, 3:29pm »
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Hey CG-
 
I agree with you in a limited sense (flash bulbs, that is)...but prefer the environmental light vs. the introduction of light. The challenge in terms of technique becomes the timing of the delayed exposure, etc.
 
Attached is an image I shot with the assistance of Jon Overfield swaying a flashlight beam across the rails-


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JE Stewart
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Re: Night Photos
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« Reply #3 on: Nov 30th, 2004, 3:30pm »
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...and this is an image minus introduced light
 
JE Stewart


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JE Stewart
Two23
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Re: Night Photos
 
« Reply #4 on: Nov 30th, 2004, 11:01pm »
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on Nov 27th, 2004, 9:05pm, CG_Tower wrote:       (Click here for original message)
I was looking through some older photos and found a couple of night shots. While not overly spectacular in nature, they were done using flash bulbs.
 
Does anyone else use this vintage technology? I find the results better then most of the modern lighting mechanisms.
 
Eric in CG

 
There are some flashbulbs still out there, but I'm not sure they're still being made.  They aren't all that difficult to work with, but you must do some math.  All of O.W. Link's night shots were made with flash bulbs, of course.  
 
There is a difference in the kind of light a bulb produces than a modern strobe.  The bulbs stay lit for a longer time for one thing.
 
 
Kent in SD


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Kent in SD
Railroadman
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Re: Night Photos
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« Reply #5 on: Dec 2nd, 2004, 9:12am »
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Here's one I shot of NS 148 going through Iaeger WV
BTW I did use a flash on this one.


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« Last Edit: Dec 2nd, 2004, 9:13am by Railroadman » Logged

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ranger101
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Re: Night Photos
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« Reply #6 on: Dec 5th, 2004, 1:14am »
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Hello everyone,
Here is a night shot I did of the train station here in Greensburg, Pa.  I used my 35mm, a tripod, and a cable release for about 8 seconds.  One question I have is; could the starbursts on the lights be because I use a UV filter on my lens?
Thanks.
Tim


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prostock19
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Re: Night Photos
 
« Reply #7 on: Dec 5th, 2004, 9:21am »
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on Dec 5th, 2004, 1:14am, ranger101 wrote:       (Click here for original message)
Hello everyone,
Here is a night shot I did of the train station here in Greensburg, Pa.  I used my 35mm, a tripod, and a cable release for about 8 seconds.  One question I have is; could the starbursts on the lights be because I use a UV filter on my lens?
Thanks.
Tim

 
I believe the UV filter probally caused it.  I use a UV filter almost 100% of the time, and occasionally a polorizer.  Here is a snippet of an email I was discussing with a guy who got 5 photos in a recent railroad calendar:
 
"As for UV filters - yep, I keep one on my lenses pretty much at all times.  Only time I ever take it off is around dusk when ghosting on the headlights is more visible.  I used to use Tiffens for all of my filters, but now I use a Hoya S-HMC filter for the UV, which is a super multi coated filter to reduce glare between it and the front element of the lens.  Since I switched to that one on my 70-200 f/4L, I haven't seen any ghosting of headlights yet...I'm sure it'll happen....  All my other filters are Tiffens or Tamrons."
 
Keep up the good work


« Last Edit: Dec 5th, 2004, 9:26am by prostock19 » Logged
jdstew
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Re: Night Photos
 
« Reply #8 on: Dec 6th, 2004, 3:03pm »
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Concerning the starburst effect...
 
Some of this relates directly with the length of the exposure. Over time, the camera adds information to the image plane...so the light essentially replaces itself, hence the starburst effect. One trick for noticing if the image is over exposed will be to look at the lights.....if its a blob, then the image was underexposed...if it has that starburst...then its fairly close...but this really depends on the other objects in the scene and their respective intensities. Bottom Line: Think composition....this is where it becomes critical. Night Photography is VERY VERY challenging...only recently have I been able to boast an average of 85% keepers, 15% deleters.....practice, study, and constant information analysis are the tricks.....
 
Another item would be purchasing a 6x or 4x Cross Filter...it can creat neat effects, but use it wisely.
 
Finally, the more "glass" added to the lens will skew the appropriate f-stop and exposure settings. So, keep the filters to a minimum at all times-
 
Hope this helps-
 
JE Stewart


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JE Stewart
Expoacher
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Re: Night Photos
 
« Reply #9 on: Dec 9th, 2004, 5:19pm »
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 Some nice older CSX shots there. While on the subject of night photoging, how about a discussion of using an external light to "paint" a sitting locomotive or RR scene. Also, I'm thorougly confused about setting night exposures. For example, if using Velvia 50 or Provia 100, where do I start? What are appropriate exps. for low light, no light when "painting", etc.?
  Thx.


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prostock19
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Re: Night Photos
 
« Reply #10 on: Dec 22nd, 2004, 10:55am »
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Here is one that I took last night with almost no setup time.  I forgot to take the filter off the lens.  I will try a simular photo tonite.
 


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Two23
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Re: Night Photos
 
« Reply #11 on: Dec 26th, 2004, 1:15pm »
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on Dec 9th, 2004, 5:19pm, Expoacher wrote:       (Click here for original message)
 Some nice older CSX shots there. While on the subject of night photoging, how about a discussion of using an external light to "paint" a sitting locomotive or RR scene. Also, I'm thorougly confused about setting night exposures. For example, if using Velvia 50 or Provia 100, where do I start? What are appropriate exps. for low light, no light when "painting", etc.?
  Thx.

 
 
First, I'll comment that I don't think the starburst effect on some of the above photos is caused by using a UV filter.  While it's true that using a non-coated filter can cause flare, it typically looks more like ghosting.  What you have here is the effect of light going around the multi-blades of the  diaphragm in the lens.  Unless the lens is wide open (no parts of the diaphragm show,) there is the potential for this to happen.  I think it's strongest at f11, if I recall.  The effect is not unpleasant.
 
Night shots.  There are two ways to go.  One is to use an incident light meter, which is always accurate.  This only works if you can stand in the spot you are taking the shot of, and obviously doesn't work for rapidly changing light such as a headlight.  For that, I use my Nikon plus a little trick.  Since most camera meters want to make things come out an "average" tone, they will try to lighten extremely dark scenes such as night shots.  To counter this, I dial in -2 stops in the exposure compensation dial.  With a manual camera, you simply take away two shutter speeds.  For example, meter says f1.8 @  1/15, I shoot f1.8 @ 1/60.  Sometimes it's too dark to get a meter reading at all.  When that happens, you have to bracket.  I start with my widest f-stop and 1 minute exposure.  Then, I go to 2 minute exposure.  Use the bulb setting on your camera if it doesn't have two minute capability.  Or, put it on multi-exposure and hit the 30-second button 4 times!
 
Using Fuji films you will have a problem with longer exposures like this.  The colors will shift around and look funny.  THis is called "reciprocity failure."  You can either switch to Kodak films (such as E100G) or use the compensation and filter recommended on the Fuji website for those films and the shutter setting.
 
Painting with light is fun.  You generally need a dark night with no moon and a VERY powerful light.  The most common way to do this is to have a big camera flash and simply hold it in your hand and pop it several times at the things you want to light up while the camera is set on 1-minute exposure or whatever.  There are locking cable releases to keep shutters open as long as you want.
 
Kent in SD


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Kent in SD
prostock19
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Re: Night Photos
 
« Reply #12 on: Dec 26th, 2004, 1:44pm »
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Thanx for the tips Kent.
 
Matt


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ranger101
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Re: Night Photos
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« Reply #13 on: Jan 2nd, 2005, 11:31pm »
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Hello all,
     Kent thanks for the information.  Heres a shot of an west bound train going through the station the same night as the photo I posted above.
Tim


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zwsplac
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Re: Night Photos
 
« Reply #14 on: Jan 3rd, 2005, 1:01am »
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I like shooting at night, though my results are hit and miss. I'll have to try some of the tips presented here, and once I get some of my results scanned, I'll show off my better ones.

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J. M. Fusco
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Re: Night Photos
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« Reply #15 on: Jan 3rd, 2005, 3:54pm »
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Here's one I like....NH&I 2-8-0, #40, built by BLW in 1925. Here we see her simmering with a grim look on her face at New Hope yard.

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jdstew
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Re: Night Photos
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« Reply #16 on: Jan 5th, 2005, 12:25am »
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Went out tonight lookin' for trains...instead I found the MoW-
 
This scene is in Downtown Cuyahoga Falls, OH on the CSX New Castle Sub-
 
JE Stewart


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JE Stewart
big3fan
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Re: Night Photos
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« Reply #17 on: Sep 5th, 2005, 8:18am »
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New hope and Ivyland # 40 Pulls out of Buckingham tender first.
 
There are more in the NH&I gallery, some with the starburst you guys are talking about. I don't want to put them here because I did them spur of the moment with out my good tripod or cable release so they have a bit of ghosting. I'm going to try again soon. This one looks ok though.


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spikemic
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Re: Night Photos
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« Reply #18 on: Oct 5th, 2005, 5:10pm »
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mmm

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CHESSIEMIKE
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Re: Night Photos
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« Reply #19 on: Oct 28th, 2006, 11:12am »
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I noticed the Whippany Railway Museum had the headlight lit on US Army #4039 one night.  I stopped and tried a few shots and this is what I got. I think the headlight being on really helped the photos. Enjoy.  
CHESSIEMIKE


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